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<channel><title><![CDATA[South West Dog Skills - Blog]]></title><link><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog]]></link><description><![CDATA[Blog]]></description><pubDate>Wed, 19 Aug 2026 15:38:30 +0100</pubDate><generator>Weebly</generator><item><title><![CDATA[Enrichment Ideas for Dogs Who Cannot Walk Far]]></title><link><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/enrichment-ideas-for-dogs-who-cannot-walk-far]]></link><comments><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/enrichment-ideas-for-dogs-who-cannot-walk-far#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Wed, 12 Aug 2026 07:12:55 GMT</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Dog Wellbeing]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/enrichment-ideas-for-dogs-who-cannot-walk-far</guid><description><![CDATA[Sometimes the walk isn't possible. A dog might be recovering from surgery, easing back after an injury, working through a reactive patch that needs quieter days, getting on in years, or simply grounded by weather that's too hot for safe exercise. Whatever the reason, the same problem shows up in the same shape — a dog with energy, curiosity and time to spare, and an owner wondering how to fill the day without making things worse.If your dog is recovering from surgery or injury, always follow y [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><div class="wsite-image wsite-image-border-none" style="padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:10px;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;text-align:center"><a><img src="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/uploads/1/2/9/5/12959186/swds-jumping-up-5426-min_orig.jpg" alt="Picture" style="width:auto;max-width:100%"></a><div style="display:block;font-size:90%"></div></div></div><div><div id="420095316348412507" align="left" style="width: 100%; overflow-y: hidden;" class="wcustomhtml"><meta charset="utf-8"><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"><meta name="description" content="Practical enrichment ideas for dogs that cannot walk far, are recovering from injury or need restricted exercise. Advice from SWDS in Bristol and Bath."><!-- PREVIEW STYLES ONLY - do not paste into the site. Everything inside <main> below is the article. --><!-- ============================================================     COPY FROM HERE     ============================================================ --><main><article class="post-enrichment-restricted-movement"><!-- IMAGE 1: a dog using a food toy or lick mat.       alt="Dog licking a frozen lick mat while resting indoors" --><p>Sometimes the walk isn't possible. A dog might be recovering from surgery, easing back after an injury, working through a reactive patch that needs quieter days, getting on in years, or simply grounded by weather that's too hot for safe exercise. Whatever the reason, the same problem shows up in the same shape &mdash; a dog with energy, curiosity and time to spare, and an owner wondering how to fill the day without making things worse.</p><aside class="vet-note"><p>If your dog is recovering from surgery or injury, always follow your vet's instructions on movement, exercise and feeding. Not every activity will suit every recovery plan.</p></aside><p>Physical exercise is only one way to tire a dog out. A short session of sniffing, problem-solving or calm training can be surprisingly effective without asking their body to do more than it safely can. Here are the ideas I come back to again and again with clients whose dogs are on restricted movement.</p><h2>Make them work for their food</h2><p>The easiest place to start is the bowl. Any meal your dog eats in ninety seconds is a meal that could have provided far more enrichment. A few options cost nothing, or almost nothing:</p><ul><li><strong>Scatter feeding.</strong> Toss their kibble across the lawn, or use a snuffle mat indoors if the weather is against you. If movement is tightly restricted, keep the search area small and the food within easy reach.</li><li><strong>Frozen food toys and lick mats.</strong> Use your dog's usual wet food, soaked kibble or another familiar, dog-safe filling. Freezing it makes the activity last longer.</li><li><strong>The muffin-tin puzzle.</strong> Drop a few pieces of kibble into each cup of a muffin tin, then cover them with suitably sized balls. Your dog has to work out how to move the balls to reach the food.</li><li><strong>Slow feeders and puzzle bowls.</strong> For dogs who inhale their food, these solve two problems at once.</li></ul><p>Use part of your dog's normal daily food allowance and supervise them, particularly when introducing a new toy or puzzle.</p><!-- IMAGE 2: a dog scatter feeding in the grass.       alt="Dog sniffing through grass for scattered kibble" --><h2>Give them something safe to chew</h2><p>Chewing is one of the most underrated ways to help a dog settle. It gives a bored or anxious dog a legitimate job to do and can keep them quietly occupied while their body rests.</p><p>Choose a dog-safe chew that suits your dog's size, chewing style, teeth and diet. Avoid bones, antlers and other extremely hard chews that could damage their teeth. Remove anything that starts to splinter, break apart or become small enough to swallow, and always supervise.</p><h2>Trade the long walk for short training sessions</h2><p>Five or ten minutes of calm training can provide plenty of mental engagement without turning the living room into an agility course. You don't need to teach anything ambitious &mdash; the point is connection, not showmanship.</p><p>Things that work well when movement is limited include:</p><ul><li>Nose touch to hand</li><li>Chin rest on your palm or knee</li><li>Looking towards you on cue</li><li>Choosing between two named toys</li><li>Finding a treat hidden beneath one of two cups</li><li>A familiar &ldquo;look at that&rdquo; exercise, provided it keeps a reactive dog calm rather than increasing their arousal</li></ul><p>Keep it short and calm, and always end before they become frustrated. Any activity involving standing, turning or walking should remain within the limits set by your vet or rehabilitation professional.</p><!-- IMAGE 3: a short, low-movement training session at home.       alt="Dog resting its chin on its owner's knee during a calm training session" --><h2>Take them somewhere without walking them</h2><p>A sit in the front garden, a few minutes at an open doorway or time watching the world from a quiet spot can be genuinely enriching. Dogs take in a huge amount through their nose, ears and eyes, and a change of scenery gives them something new to process.</p><p>A short car trip can also help, but only when travelling and getting in and out are safe for the dog and compatible with their recovery plan. For reactive dogs, choose somewhere quiet enough to be interesting rather than overwhelming.</p><h2>Rotate the toys</h2><p>If every toy is out all the time, none of them stays interesting. Split the toy box in half, put one half away in a cupboard and swap them over every week or two.</p><p>The dog you thought was bored with their toys may simply have been bored with those toys, in that combination, on the living-room floor.</p><h2>Let them shred something</h2><p>Some dogs need to destroy. Rather than fight it, give them a controlled outlet. A cardboard box stuffed with scrunched-up paper and a few pieces of kibble hidden inside can keep many dogs busy. Empty toilet-roll tubes folded at both ends with a little food inside also make simple disposable puzzle toys.</p><p>Supervise throughout, and do not use these activities for a dog that eats cardboard or paper. Count the hidden food as part of their daily allowance. Bin the mess afterwards and everyone wins.</p><h2>When you'd like a hand</h2><div class="article-cta"><p>None of this replaces the day you'll take your dog back to the hills &mdash; but it can help keep them settled, thinking and connected to you while their body catches up.</p><p>If you'd like a structured plan tailored specifically to your dog, or you're finding that enforced rest is bringing out behaviour you don't know how to handle, that's exactly the kind of thing we work on in the <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/peaceful-walks.html">peACEful Walks</a> sessions and <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/ace-canine.html">ACE packages</a>.</p><p><a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/contact-us.html">Get in touch</a> &mdash; I'll help you build something that fits your dog.</p></div></article></main><!-- ============================================================     COPY TO HERE     ============================================================ --></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Loose-Lead Walking: Connection, Not Control]]></title><link><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/loose-lead-walking-connection-not-control]]></link><comments><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/loose-lead-walking-connection-not-control#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2026 08:07:48 GMT</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Dog Behaviour]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/loose-lead-walking-connection-not-control</guid><description><![CDATA[       Ask most owners what a good walk looks like and the answer is usually the same: the dog walks comfortably beside you, the lead stays slack, and you both get where you're going without a running commentary of jerks, corrections and sighs.Ask how to get there, and the answers get murkier. Corrections. Anti-pull harnesses. Head collars. Turning away every time the dog pulls. Standing still until the dog "gives in" and comes back to heel.Here's the bit most approaches miss: a dog who is overw [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><div class="wsite-image wsite-image-border-none " style="padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:10px;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;text-align:center"> <a> <img src="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/uploads/1/2/9/5/12959186/20220328-1v9a6142-2-min_orig.jpg" alt="Picture" style="width:auto;max-width:100%" /> </a> <div style="display:block;font-size:90%"></div> </div></div>  <div class="paragraph"><span style="font-weight:normal">Ask most owners what a good walk looks like and the answer is usually the same: the dog walks comfortably beside you, the lead stays slack, and you both get where you're going without a running commentary of jerks, corrections and sighs.<br /></span><br />Ask how to get there, and the answers get murkier. Corrections. Anti-pull harnesses. Head collars. Turning away every time the dog pulls. Standing still until the dog "gives in" and comes back to heel.<br /><br />Here's the bit most approaches miss: a dog who is overwhelmed, aroused or anxious isn't choosing to ignore you. Their nervous system is too busy dealing with the environment to have any room left for you. You can't reward, correct or manage your way past that. You can only help them get regulated enough to come back online &mdash; and loose-lead walking follows from there.<br /><br />That's how I think about pulling, and it's how I coach it at SWDS.<br /><br /><strong>Rule out pain first<br /></strong>Before anything else: if your dog has started pulling more than usual, seems stiff, is reluctant on certain surfaces, or is just off in themselves, get them checked by your vet before you start any training. Pain shows up as behaviour, and no amount of loose-lead practice fixes a sore neck, back or hip. Sort the pain, then come back to this.<br /><br /><strong>It isn't obedience, it's regulation<br /></strong>Loose-lead walking isn't a skill you install through repetition. It's what a dog does when they're settled enough in their body to choose connection over everything else pulling at their attention.<br /><br />That's the shift from control to connection. Control asks: how do I make the pulling stop? Connection asks: what does my dog need in order to feel safe enough here to want to stay close?<br /><br />A dog who is regulated has room to notice you, check in and make a choice. A dog who is dysregulated doesn't. Flooded with adrenaline, scanning for threat, overstimulated by movement and noise &mdash; they physically cannot reach that choice yet, however well timed your marker word is.<br /><br />That isn't stubbornness. It's a nervous system doing exactly what nervous systems do under pressure. Your job isn't to demand the behaviour. It's to build the conditions where staying close is the easiest and safest thing your dog's body knows how to do.<br /><br /><strong>The equipment matters</strong>Before we get to the mechanics, a quick word on kit.<ul><li>A well-fitted <strong>Y-front harness</strong>, sitting clear of the shoulders and allowing natural movement. Flat collars for lead work are a no from me &mdash; a dog pulling into one puts pressure on the neck and trachea, which isn't doing them any favours.</li><li>A <strong>long, soft lead</strong>, around three metres. Short leads crowd a dog against your leg and remove the room they need to move naturally.</li><li>A <strong>long line</strong> &mdash; five to eight metres, clipped to the harness &mdash; while loose-lead walking and regulation are still developing. Space to sniff and move is space to settle.</li></ul><strong>Build connection, don't demand position</strong>Each time your dog is near you on a slack lead, mark the moment and reward it. That's the mechanic. What you're actually doing, though, is showing your dog over and over that the space beside you is where their nervous system gets to feel calm and safe &mdash; not because you demanded it, but because they discovered it works.<br /><br />Start indoors or in the garden, somewhere with little competition for your dog's attention. Take a few steps. If they stay near you, mark the moment &mdash; a clear, cheerful "Yes" the instant they're in the right place &mdash; and drop a treat beside your foot. Take a few more steps, mark and reward again. Repeat.<br /><br />The marker word is doing something specific. It tells your dog precisely which moment earned the treat, so they aren't left guessing. Dropping the treat by your foot matters too: it puts the good thing where you want the dog to be, rather than teaching them to leap up at your hand.<br /><br />You're building a felt sense, not just a trained response.<br /><br /><strong>When the lead goes tight, pause &mdash; don't push<br /></strong>Don't yank, correct or repeat the cue louder. Stop. Stand still and wait.<br /><br />The moment your dog turns back towards you, that's regulation returning, however briefly, and it's worth marking and rewarding. Then carry on.<br /><br />You're not punishing the pull. You're giving their nervous system a chance to settle and reconnect, and showing your dog that coming back to you is what gets the walk moving again.<br /><br /><strong>Capacity, not just difficulty<br /></strong>Loose-lead walking is easy in the kitchen and hard on the high street. Not because the high street is a harder trick, but because it asks far more of your dog's capacity to stay regulated. Everything in between is where the work happens.<ul><li>Level 1: In the house</li><li>Level 2: In the garden</li><li>Level 3: A quiet side street</li><li>Level 4: A park, early morning, few distractions</li><li>Level 5: A busy path with dogs, joggers and children</li></ul>If your dog can manage Level 2 but falls apart at Level 4, that isn't failure. It's your dog telling you exactly where their capacity currently sits, and Level 3 is where the next session belongs.<br /><br /><strong>Let them sniff<br /></strong>A walk with no sniffing isn't really a walk &mdash; it's a march. Sniffing helps a dog's nervous system come down a gear. It gives them something to process and reduces the pull towards whatever's ahead.<br /><br />Build sniffing time into every walk. Cue it, let them investigate, then move on. A dog who has thoroughly worked the last three lampposts has far less urgency dragging them towards the fourth.<br /><br /><strong>Realistic expectations<br /></strong>This isn't a two-week job. Most dogs need months of consistent, calm practice before the skill holds up in busy environments, and adolescent dogs may lose it and find it again more than once along the way.<br />That's normal. Go back to an easier level, rebuild the habit there, and work forwards again.<br /><br /><strong>When you'd like a hand<br />&#8203;</strong>If your dog's pulling comes from <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/reactive-dogs.html">struggling with reactivity</a>, overarousal or fear rather than simple enthusiasm, the mechanics above will only take you so far. The underlying emotional regulation needs addressing first.<br /><br />That's exactly what our <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/peaceful-walks.html">peACEful Walks</a> sessions are built for: one to one, quiet locations, plenty of space, and a structured way to help your dog feel calmer and more connected on lead.<br />&#8203;<br /><a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/contact-us.html">Get in touch</a> &mdash; we're happy to talk through what your dog needs.</div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Hot Weather Walking: How to Keep Your Dog Safe When the Sun Is Out]]></title><link><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/hot-weather-walking-keeping-your-dog-safe]]></link><comments><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/hot-weather-walking-keeping-your-dog-safe#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2026 07:04:43 GMT</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Dog Wellbeing]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/hot-weather-walking-keeping-your-dog-safe</guid><description><![CDATA[South West Dog Skills · Bristol & BathEvery summer I have the same conversation with owners. The sun is out, the dog is raring to go, and it feels wrong to say no to a walk. But some days, saying no is the kindest thing you can do.Dogs do not sweat the way we do. They cool themselves mostly through panting, and once the air around them is hot and humid, panting stops working. A dog can overheat in the time it takes you to walk to the end of your road. It happens quickly, it can be fatal, and it [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><div class="wsite-image wsite-image-border-none" style="padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:10px;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;text-align:center"><a><img src="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/uploads/1/2/9/5/12959186/swds-dog-in-shade_orig.jpg" alt="Picture" style="width:auto;max-width:100%"></a><div style="display:block;font-size:90%"></div></div></div><div><div id="591430713160886931" align="left" style="width: 100%; overflow-y: hidden;" class="wcustomhtml"><meta charset="utf-8"><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"><meta name="description" content="Practical advice on walking your dog safely in hot weather &mdash; tarmac checks, timing, enrichment alternatives, and warning signs to watch for. From South West Dog Skills, Bristol &amp; Bath."><link rel="canonical" href="https://www.southwestdogskills.co.uk/hot-weather-walking-keeping-your-dog-safe"><meta property="og:title" content="Hot Weather Walking: How to Keep Your Dog Safe"><meta property="og:description" content="Practical advice on walking your dog safely in hot weather &mdash; tarmac checks, timing, enrichment alternatives, and warning signs to watch for."><meta property="og:type" content="article"><meta property="og:url" content="https://www.southwestdogskills.co.uk/hot-weather-walking-keeping-your-dog-safe"><article><p class="byline">South West Dog Skills &middot; Bristol & Bath</p><p>Every summer I have the same conversation with owners. The sun is out, the dog is raring to go, and it feels wrong to say no to a walk. But some days, saying no is the kindest thing you can do.</p><p>Dogs do not sweat the way we do. They cool themselves mostly through panting, and once the air around them is hot and humid, panting stops working. A dog can overheat in the time it takes you to walk to the end of your road. It happens quickly, it can be fatal, and it is entirely preventable.</p><p>Here is how I approach hot weather with the dogs I work with, and with my own.</p><h2>Check the pavement before the dog does</h2><p>Tarmac and paving slabs hold heat for a long time. On a 25-degree day, the ground under your feet can be well over 50 degrees &mdash; hot enough to burn a dog's paw pads within seconds.</p><p>The test is simple. Press the back of your hand flat against the pavement and hold it there for seven seconds. If you cannot keep it there comfortably, your dog cannot walk on it. This is not a suggestion. Burned pads take weeks to heal and are extraordinarily painful.</p><p>Grass, shaded woodland tracks, and forest floor are all much cooler. If the only route out of your door is tarmac, that is a day for a garden game instead of a walk.</p><h2>Walk early or walk late</h2><p>On hot days I move walks to before 8am or after 8pm. The ground has had time to cool, the air is more forgiving, and shaded routes stay shaded for longer.</p><p>Middle of the day is not the time for a walk. It is not the time for the garden either, if there is no shade. Dogs will happily lie in full sun and cook themselves &mdash; they do not always know when to move.</p><h2>Watch for the early signs</h2><p>Heatstroke does not announce itself. By the time a dog is in trouble, it can be very hard to bring them back. The signs I want you watching for are:</p><ul><li>Heavy, frantic panting that does not slow down when they stop moving</li><li>Bright red gums or tongue</li><li>Thick, ropey drool</li><li>Slowing down, lagging behind, or wanting to lie down mid-walk</li><li>A dazed or unfocused look</li></ul><p>If you see any of these, stop. Get the dog into shade, offer small amounts of cool (not ice-cold) water, wet their paws, belly, and armpits with cool water, and get to a vet if they do not settle within a few minutes. Do not soak them in freezing water &mdash; that constricts blood vessels and traps heat in the core, which makes things worse.</p><p>The <a href="https://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/dogs/health/heatstroke" rel="noopener" target="_blank">RSPCA has a clear summary of the warning signs and immediate first aid</a> &mdash; worth reading before hot weather really sets in, so it is fresh in your mind on the day.</p><h2>The dogs I worry about most</h2><p>Some dogs cope with heat better than others. The ones I keep the closest eye on are flat-faced breeds &mdash; bulldogs, pugs, French bulldogs, boxers &mdash; because their airways are already working harder than a longer-nosed dog's, and panting becomes inefficient much sooner. Older dogs, overweight dogs, thick-coated breeds, and puppies are also higher risk.</p><p>If your dog is in any of those groups, the threshold for skipping a walk drops significantly. A 22-degree afternoon that a healthy young collie will handle fine is a day indoors for a senior French bulldog.</p><p>Watch too for dogs who are simply flatter than usual in the heat. If your dog is more lethargic, seeking out cool tiles or shade, or turning down food, let them rest. That is their body telling you they need to sit the day out &mdash; do not push them into activity because it happens to be walk time.</p><h2>What to do instead</h2><p>There are plenty of ways to give a dog a good day without leaving the house. Scatter feeds in the garden, lick mats with something tasty smeared on them, snuffle mats, and short training sessions in the cool of the kitchen all give the brain proper work.</p><p>On the hottest days, I set up scent games &mdash; hide small pieces of food around the house or garden and let the dog find them. Most dogs will happily work through the space nose-down and come back to their bed pleased with themselves.</p><p>Another one worth trying is <strong>ACE Free Work</strong> &mdash; a low-arousal setup of familiar objects and food at different heights and textures that lets a dog explore, sniff, and choose where to spend their time. It is calm, it is entirely dog-led, and it works particularly well on days when a walk is off the cards. There is <a href="https://youtu.be/cwN_A3D40Do" rel="noopener" target="_blank">a short video showing how to set one up here</a>.</p><h2>The short version</h2><p>If in doubt, do not walk. A missed walk has never hurt a dog. Heatstroke has killed plenty.</p><p>If you are ever unsure whether it is safe to head out with your dog, the seven-second pavement test is the simplest answer we have. Trust it, and set the dog up with something to think about instead.</p><p class="cta">Need a hand with a dog who struggles to settle indoors, or one who is bouncing off the walls on days you cannot walk them? <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/contact-us.html">Get in touch</a> &mdash; enrichment and calm-at-home work is a big part of what we do at SWDS.</p></article></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[New Puppy Guardian: How to coach a reliable recall - Updated July 2026]]></title><link><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/new-puppy-guardian-how-to-coach-a-reliable-recall]]></link><comments><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/new-puppy-guardian-how-to-coach-a-reliable-recall#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2019 18:59:31 GMT</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Puppy Training]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/new-puppy-guardian-how-to-coach-a-reliable-recall</guid><description><![CDATA[ Getting a puppy is one of the most exciting things you will ever do. It is also one of the most important stretches of training a dog will ever get &mdash; the habits and skills you build in those first months set the tone for everything that follows.Recall is one of the big ones. A reliable recall keeps your dog safe, gives you the freedom to let them off lead, and &mdash; done properly &mdash; builds the kind of relationship where your dog wants to come back to you, not one where they feel th [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<span class='imgPusher' style='float:left;height:0px'></span><span style='display: table;width:auto;position:relative;float:left;max-width:100%;;clear:left;margin-top:0px;*margin-top:0px'><a><img src="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/uploads/1/2/9/5/12959186/img-4067_1_orig.jpg" style="margin-top: 5px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px; border-width:1px;padding:3px; max-width:100%" alt="Picture" class="galleryImageBorder wsite-image" /></a><span style="display: table-caption; caption-side: bottom; font-size: 90%; margin-top: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;" class="wsite-caption"></span></span> <div class="paragraph" style="display:block;"><br /><br />Getting a puppy is one of the most exciting things you will ever do. It is also one of the most important stretches of training a dog will ever get &mdash; the habits and skills you build in those first months set the tone for everything that follows.<br /><br />Recall is one of the big ones. A reliable recall keeps your dog safe, gives you the freedom to let them off lead, and &mdash; done properly &mdash; builds the kind of relationship where your dog wants to come back to you, not one where they feel they have to.<br /><br />That last bit matters. A good recall is not obedience. It is the puppy choosing you over whatever else is happening, because coming to you has always worked out well for them.<br />Here is how I coach it.<br /><br /><strong>Start with the right setup</strong><br />&#8203;Recall is built in stages, and the first stage is always somewhere quiet. The house, before anything else. Your puppy is used to the sights and smells, and there is not much competing for their attention, so it is much easier for them to focus on what you are teaching.<br />Before you start, gather:<ul style="color:rgb(34, 34, 34)"><li>A pouch of small, smelly treats your puppy actually likes</li><li>A well-fitted harness or collar (if you need a hand fitting one without stress, let us know)</li><li>A lead if you are heading outside &mdash; worth practising with a lead on inside too, so the puppy learns that lead-on does not mean the fun stops</li></ul><br /><strong>Coaching a recall, step by step</strong><ol style="color:rgb(34, 34, 34)"><li>Sit on the floor with your puppy and place a treat about an arm&rsquo;s length away. As they eat it and turn back to you, call their name or make an encouraging sound. When they reach you, make a fuss and reward them.</li><li>Do the same standing.</li><li>Throw the treat a bit further. As they turn to come back, start moving backwards while encouraging them. When they get to you, give three rewards, one after the other. This makes coming back to you more valuable than the single treat they picked up off the floor.</li><li>Once they are getting the hang of it, start pairing the behaviour with a cue. A cue is a word that tells the dog what behaviour you want. In this example we will use &lsquo;Come&rsquo;.</li><li>As your dog comes towards you, say &lsquo;Come&rsquo;. When they arrive, mark the behaviour with a verbal marker (&lsquo;Yes&rsquo;) or a clicker, and reward.</li><br /><br /></ol> <strong>What is a marker?</strong><br />A marker is a word (&lsquo;Yes&rsquo;, &lsquo;Good&rsquo;, &lsquo;Nice&rsquo;) or a clicker sound that flags the exact moment your dog did the thing you wanted. It is always followed by something the puppy enjoys &mdash; food, a toy, a fuss. Over time, the puppy pairs the marker with the reward, and the reward with the behaviour. The behaviour gets repeated because the puppy has learned it works.<br />Food usually does the job for a puppy, but some prefer a toy or physical fuss. Find out what motivates yours and use it.<br /><br /><strong>Add a release and finish with play</strong><br />Once your dog has come back and been rewarded, they need to know they are free to go again.<ol style="color:rgb(34, 34, 34)"><li>Pick a release word &mdash; &lsquo;Ok&rsquo;, &lsquo;Free&rsquo; or &lsquo;Break&rsquo;.</li><li>After rewarding, say the release word and gesture away from you so they know it is fine to head off and sniff.</li><li>Finish every session with a game. It builds the bond and it helps the learning stick. Puppies often love a gentle game of tug.</li><li>As your puppy starts to understand the cue, you can use it before they are already coming to you. Call their name and &lsquo;Come&rsquo;, and they should turn and run in. Mark and reward as they arrive, then release.</li></ol> <strong>Do not rush it</strong><br />Everything above is the full framework &mdash; but it is meant to be spread over several sessions, not crammed into one. Keep coaching short: five to ten minutes at a time, depending on age. A couple of sessions a day is plenty. When puppies get tired, mistakes creep in and frustration follows, so stop before either of you gets there.<br />The other rule I hold to is this: only call your puppy when you are 95 to 100% sure they are going to come back. Every time you call and they do not come, they are learning that the cue is optional. That is much harder to unpick than it is to avoid in the first place.<br /><br /><strong>Set them up to succeed</strong><br />Recall is easier in some environments than in others, so build the difficulty gradually. Think of it like a video game &mdash; level 1 first, work up from there.<ul style="color:rgb(34, 34, 34)"><li>Level 1: In the home</li><li>Level 2: In the garden</li><li>Level 3: On a quiet side street</li><li>Level 4: A field with no other dogs or people</li><li>Level 5: A field or park with dogs, people, or children, or a busy high street</li></ul> If your puppy starts sniffing, scratching, or drinking mid-session, they are probably finding it too much. Give them a break, and come back later at an easier level.<br /><br /><strong>Troubleshooting</strong><ul style="color:rgb(34, 34, 34)"><li>Adolescence hits from around 16 weeks and often looks like your puppy has forgotten everything. It has not. Take the training back to basics, lower your expectations for the harder environments, and be patient.</li><li>If you always mark, reward, and release straight away, some dogs learn to hoover up the treat and take off again. Vary the timing. Sometimes reward and release, sometimes reward and ask for something else (a hand touch, a sit), sometimes scatter a few treats on the floor.</li><li>Occasionally clip the lead on during a recall before releasing again. If the lead going on always means the walk is ending, the puppy learns to avoid the recall.</li><li>In busier environments, use a harness and long line. If they do not recall immediately, do not pull &mdash; wait for them to re-engage. When they do, it is party time.</li></ul> <strong>Adding variety</strong><br />Keep it interesting by mixing in a few games:<ul style="color:rgb(34, 34, 34)"><li><strong>Through the legs</strong> &mdash; as your dog runs in, throw the treat between your legs so they run through to get it. Keeps their speed up. If you cannot do the through-the-legs version, turn side-on and throw the treat past your hip.</li><li><strong>Hand touch</strong> &mdash; teach your dog to touch the palm of your hand with their nose for a reward. Then use it at the end of a recall.</li><li><strong>Scent game</strong> &mdash; when they arrive, scatter a few treats on the floor for them to sniff out.</li></ul> <strong>Where it goes next</strong><br />Recall sits alongside a few other skills that quietly make everything else easier &mdash; calm on lead, working around distractions, being able to settle when the day gets busy. If any of those feel like the missing piece, our <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/peaceful-walks.html">peACEful Walks</a> sessions cover the lead-work half of the same puzzle, and our <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/ace-puppy.html">ACE Puppy package</a> rolls the whole first-few-months foundation into one programme.<br />Find out more about our <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/puppy-support.html">puppy support</a>.</div> <hr style="width:100%;clear:both;visibility:hidden;"></hr>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Chucking out the agility rule book - Updated July 2026]]></title><link><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/chucking-out-the-agility-rule-book]]></link><comments><![CDATA[https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/chucking-out-the-agility-rule-book#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Sun, 28 Oct 2018 13:40:10 GMT</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Dog Behaviour]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.southwestdogskills.com/blog/chucking-out-the-agility-rule-book</guid><description><![CDATA[ 	 	 		 		RSS Feed 	    Sometimes you have to be brave. Sometimes you need to rewrite the rule book entirely &mdash; or ignore it altogether &mdash; to change a dog&rsquo;s life.Meet Slade. He is a rescue greyhound who has had one hell of a life, and yet, by taking a flexible approach to his agility sessions, we have been able to build an engaged, curious, motivated dog who looks forward to every Monday night.Slade&rsquo;s owner Sally is cautious about where he goes off lead, and rightly so. Our [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="blog-feed-link"> 	<link href=""  rel="alternate" type="application/rss+xml" title="RSS" /> 	<a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/1/feed"> 		<img src="//cdn2.editmysite.com/images/old/bg_feed.gif" /> 		RSS Feed 	</a> </p>  <span class='imgPusher' style='float:left;height:0px'></span><span style='display: table;width:auto;position:relative;float:left;max-width:100%;;clear:left;margin-top:0px;*margin-top:0px'><a><img src="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/uploads/1/2/9/5/12959186/published/slade-6.jpg?250" style="margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px; border-width:0; max-width:100%" alt="Picture" class="galleryImageBorder wsite-image" /></a><span style="display: table-caption; caption-side: bottom; font-size: 90%; margin-top: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;" class="wsite-caption"></span></span> <div class="paragraph" style="display:block;"><br />Sometimes you have to be brave. Sometimes you need to rewrite the rule book entirely &mdash; or ignore it altogether &mdash; to change a dog&rsquo;s life.<br /><span></span>Meet Slade. He is a rescue greyhound who has had one hell of a life, and yet, by taking a flexible approach to his agility sessions, we have been able to build an engaged, curious, motivated dog who looks forward to every Monday night.<br /><span></span>Slade&rsquo;s owner Sally is cautious about where he goes off lead, and rightly so. Our specialist coaching centre is the perfect environment for him: the other dogs waiting in their individual pens, the whole space fully enclosed, and Slade able to concentrate entirely on whatever we ask of him.<br /><span></span>Slade is a big dog, and standard 60cm tunnels are a real strain on his body. So we swapped in our 80cm hoopers tunnel &mdash; now known around here as Slade&rsquo;s Tunnel &mdash; and he gets the thrill of running through without paying for it later.<br /><span></span>That is one story among many. We change what is standard whenever it is the difference between a dog joining in and a dog being left out.<br /><span></span>That is what non-competitive agility is for. It is not about scores, weave-pole entries, or shaving hundredths of a second off a course time. It is about giving your dog somewhere to move, think, and enjoy themselves, in a way their body can handle and their brain finds rewarding.<br /><span></span>We believe in an enriched and varied lifestyle for every dog, no matter age, breed, or ability. Our <a href="https://www.southwestdogskills.com/agility.html">agility sessions</a> are one of the ways we try to make good on that &mdash; reward-based, adapted to the individual, and above all, fun.<br /><span></span></div> <hr style="width:100%;clear:both;visibility:hidden;"></hr>  <blockquote><span style="color:rgb(63, 63, 63)">&lsquo;We believe in the importance of an enriched and varied lifestyle for all dogs no matter age, breed or ability. To help fulfil this, we aim to provide a wide range of enrichment activities in our specialist coaching centre in Hunstrete, all taught through reward-based methods and adapted to meet the needs of each dog. We pride ourselves on offering non-competitive, fun and friendly agility as one of these activities.&rsquo;</span></blockquote>  ]]></content:encoded></item></channel></rss>