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Thoughts from SWDS

Reading Your Dog: What Their Body Language Is Telling You

27/8/2026

 
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Dogs communicate with us all the time. They use their eyes, ears, tail, mouth, posture and movement to tell us how they are feeling.

The problem is that some of their clearest signals are also the easiest to miss.

Most of us notice a bark, growl or snap. We are much less likely to spot the small head turn, quick lick of the lips or sudden stiffness that came before it.

Learning to notice those quieter signals can make a huge difference. You can spot when your dog is becoming uncomfortable, recognise when they are genuinely enjoying an interaction and, just as importantly, know when to give them a bit of breathing room.

Here is what to look for.

Start with the whole dog

One of the easiest mistakes to make is to focus on a single body part.

A wagging tail does not automatically mean a happy dog. A dog can wag while the rest of their body is stiff and tense. Equally, ears held back do not always mean fear.

Body language makes more sense when you look at the complete picture and what is happening at the time.

Start by asking:

  • Is their body loose or tense? A comfortable dog will generally look soft and fluid rather than rigid.
  • Where is their weight? Are they leaning forwards, standing naturally or shifting backwards?
  • Are they trying to get closer or create distance?
  • What has just changed? Has a person approached, another dog appeared or someone reached towards them?

Most importantly, get to know what normal looks like for your own dog. Breed, age, build and personality all make a difference.

Tails: a wag doesn't always mean happy

The wag is probably the most misunderstood piece of dog body language.

Dogs certainly wag their tails when they are happy, but they also wag when they are excited, uncertain or highly aroused.

Look at the tail alongside the rest of the body.

  • Loose, sweeping wag with a relaxed body: usually a good sign. You may see the whole back end joining in.
  • Raised, stiff tail: can suggest the dog is highly alert or aroused, particularly if the rest of the body has gone still.
  • Lowered tail or low wag: can be associated with uncertainty or worry.
  • Tail tucked underneath: often suggests fear or significant discomfort.

There is no universal 'correct' tail position. A Greyhound, Pug and German Shepherd have very different natural tail carriage.

Learn where your dog's tail sits when they are relaxed and look for changes from that baseline.

Ears, eyes and mouth: look for the little changes

A dog's face can tell you an enormous amount, particularly when you notice a change from a few seconds earlier.

Ears

Ears pulled or pinned backwards can be a sign that a dog is worried or uncomfortable, particularly when combined with a lowered head, tense body or attempts to move away.

Ears held forwards usually mean the dog is paying close attention to something. That could be interest, excitement or concern, so look at everything else before deciding what it means.

Breed matters here too. Reading the ears of a German Shepherd is rather easier than reading those of a Cocker Spaniel.

Eyes

Relaxed dogs tend to have softer-looking eyes and natural blinking.

If the eyes suddenly become wide, fixed or very still, pay attention.

You may also see the whites of the eyes in a crescent shape, often referred to as whale eye. In the right context, particularly alongside a tense body or attempts to turn away, this can be a sign that the dog is uncomfortable.

A prolonged, hard stare combined with a stiff body is a much stronger indication that the dog needs space.

Mouth

A relaxed dog will often have a soft, slightly open mouth.

One useful thing to watch for is a sudden change. If your dog's mouth has been hanging open comfortably and abruptly closes as someone approaches, something has caught their attention.

Tight lips, tension around the corners of the mouth, a wrinkled muzzle or exposed teeth are all signals worth taking seriously.

Again, don't read the mouth on its own. Look at the dog attached to it.

The little signals that say, 'I'm not comfortable'

Dogs often show very small changes in behaviour when they are uncertain, stressed or trying to cope with a situation.

You may hear these described as stress, appeasement or displacement behaviours. The terminology matters less than recognising when they appear.

Look out for:

  • Lip licking or quick tongue flicks when there is no food around
  • Yawning when your dog is not tired
  • Turning their head or body away
  • Suddenly becoming very interested in sniffing the ground
  • Scratching at an unusual moment
  • Shaking themselves as though they are wet
  • Moving away or hiding
  • Suddenly going very still

One yawn does not mean your dog is stressed. A dog sniffing the ground may simply have found something fascinating.

Context is everything.

But if your dog suddenly starts licking their lips, turning away and shifting their weight backwards as somebody reaches towards them, that combination deserves your attention.

Don't force the interaction. Give them some space and see whether their body relaxes. Some dogs need that space far more often than others, and if your dog is on the sensitive side, it is worth building into everyday life.

Think of warnings as a volume control, not a ladder

You will sometimes see dog aggression explained as a 'ladder', with dogs supposedly progressing through a predictable series of signals before biting.

It is a useful idea in one respect: dogs often use quieter signals before resorting to more obvious warnings.

But real dogs are not that tidy.

One dog might turn away repeatedly before growling. Another may freeze almost immediately. A frightened dog may move through several signals in seconds, while another may appear to skip some altogether.

Broadly, you might see increasingly obvious signs such as:

  • Looking or turning away
  • Lip licking or yawning
  • Moving away
  • Becoming tense or freezing
  • A hard stare
  • Growling or showing teeth
  • Snapping
  • Biting

The important point is not memorising an order. It is recognising that a dog who becomes still, growls or snaps is communicating that the situation has already gone too far for them.

Don't punish the growl

A growl can sound frightening, but it is useful information.

Your dog is telling you that they are uncomfortable enough to want something to stop or move away.

Telling them off does not necessarily change how they feel about the situation. It may simply add more pressure.

Instead, create space, work out what caused the reaction and deal with the underlying problem.

A growl is a warning worth listening to.

Three signals we humans often get wrong

The 'guilty look'

You come home to find something destroyed and there is your dog: head lowered, ears back, avoiding eye contact.

They must know what they've done.

Except research suggests it isn't that simple.

What we call the guilty look appears to be strongly influenced by our own behaviour and reactions. Dogs can show the same appeasing behaviour when an owner believes they have done something wrong, even when they haven't.

Rather than confessing to the chewed skirting board, your dog may simply be responding to the person standing in front of them looking distinctly unimpressed.

Rolling over for a tummy rub

Sometimes a dog lying on their back really is saying, 'Go on then, rub my belly.'

The body will usually tell you.

A dog asking for fuss is likely to be loose, relaxed and wriggly.

A worried dog may also roll onto their side or back as an appeasement gesture, but their body is more likely to look tense. Their tail may be tucked and their ears pulled back.

Don't assume that an exposed belly is an invitation to touch it.

The 'smile'

Dogs can look wonderfully cheerful with an open mouth, relaxed face and tongue hanging out.

But don't judge a photograph by the teeth alone.

A soft, open mouth on a relaxed dog is very different from a tight mouth, wrinkled muzzle or lips pulled back while the rest of the body is stiff.

Look at the whole dog, not the grin.

How to get better at reading your dog

You don't need to spend hours studying canine behaviour.

Just start paying more attention to your own dog.

Over the next week, try this:

  • Watch them when nothing is happening. Spend a couple of minutes noticing how your dog stands, sits and rests when completely relaxed.
  • Notice changes. When someone arrives or another dog appears, what happens first? The ears? Tail? Mouth? Body?
  • Look at greetings. Is your dog choosing to move towards the person or being held there while the person approaches them?
  • Use the three-second check. Loose or stiff? Moving closer or away? Relaxed face or tense face?
  • Watch short videos back. You will often notice tiny changes that happened too quickly to register at the time.

Activities like ACE Free Work at home, or a slower, sniffier peaceful walk, make this much easier. Your dog explores at their own pace and you get time to simply watch.

Once you know your dog's relaxed baseline, the differences become much easier to see.

When to get some help

If your dog's behaviour has suddenly changed, your first port of call should be your vet. Pain and other medical problems can affect behaviour, sometimes before there are any obvious physical symptoms.

It is also worth getting professional advice if your dog regularly freezes, growls, snaps or reacts strongly towards people or other dogs, or if you are simply struggling to work out what they need.

Puppies and adolescent dogs often benefit from support too, simply because so much of the world is still new to them.

In the UK, look for properly accredited professionals rather than relying on someone simply calling themselves a dog trainer or behaviourist. The Animal Behaviour and Training Council (ABTC) maintains registers of appropriately assessed trainers and behaviour professionals.

There is no shame in asking for help.

Dogs are communicating with us every day. The better we become at noticing the quiet stuff, the less often they need to turn up the volume.

If you would like help understanding your dog's behaviour and building a calmer, more confident routine together, get in touch to arrange a one-to-one session. We work with dogs and their people in Bristol, Bath and the surrounding area.

Loose-Lead Walking: Connection, Not Control

29/7/2026

 
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Ask most owners what a good walk looks like and the answer is usually the same: the dog walks comfortably beside you, the lead stays slack, and you both get where you're going without a running commentary of jerks, corrections and sighs.

Ask how to get there, and the answers get murkier. Corrections. Anti-pull harnesses. Head collars. Turning away every time the dog pulls. Standing still until the dog "gives in" and comes back to heel.

Here's the bit most approaches miss: a dog who is overwhelmed, aroused or anxious isn't choosing to ignore you. Their nervous system is too busy dealing with the environment to have any room left for you. You can't reward, correct or manage your way past that. You can only help them get regulated enough to come back online — and loose-lead walking follows from there.

That's how I think about pulling, and it's how I coach it at SWDS.

Rule out pain first
Before anything else: if your dog has started pulling more than usual, seems stiff, is reluctant on certain surfaces, or is just off in themselves, get them checked by your vet before you start any training. Pain shows up as behaviour, and no amount of loose-lead practice fixes a sore neck, back or hip. Sort the pain, then come back to this.

It isn't obedience, it's regulation
Loose-lead walking isn't a skill you install through repetition. It's what a dog does when they're settled enough in their body to choose connection over everything else pulling at their attention.

That's the shift from control to connection. Control asks: how do I make the pulling stop? Connection asks: what does my dog need in order to feel safe enough here to want to stay close?

A dog who is regulated has room to notice you, check in and make a choice. A dog who is dysregulated doesn't. Flooded with adrenaline, scanning for threat, overstimulated by movement and noise — they physically cannot reach that choice yet, however well timed your marker word is.

That isn't stubbornness. It's a nervous system doing exactly what nervous systems do under pressure. Your job isn't to demand the behaviour. It's to build the conditions where staying close is the easiest and safest thing your dog's body knows how to do.

The equipment mattersBefore we get to the mechanics, a quick word on kit.
  • A well-fitted Y-front harness, sitting clear of the shoulders and allowing natural movement. Flat collars for lead work are a no from me — a dog pulling into one puts pressure on the neck and trachea, which isn't doing them any favours.
  • A long, soft lead, around three metres. Short leads crowd a dog against your leg and remove the room they need to move naturally.
  • A long line — five to eight metres, clipped to the harness — while loose-lead walking and regulation are still developing. Space to sniff and move is space to settle.
Build connection, don't demand positionEach time your dog is near you on a slack lead, mark the moment and reward it. That's the mechanic. What you're actually doing, though, is showing your dog over and over that the space beside you is where their nervous system gets to feel calm and safe — not because you demanded it, but because they discovered it works.

Start indoors or in the garden, somewhere with little competition for your dog's attention. Take a few steps. If they stay near you, mark the moment — a clear, cheerful "Yes" the instant they're in the right place — and drop a treat beside your foot. Take a few more steps, mark and reward again. Repeat.

The marker word is doing something specific. It tells your dog precisely which moment earned the treat, so they aren't left guessing. Dropping the treat by your foot matters too: it puts the good thing where you want the dog to be, rather than teaching them to leap up at your hand.

You're building a felt sense, not just a trained response.

When the lead goes tight, pause — don't push
Don't yank, correct or repeat the cue louder. Stop. Stand still and wait.

The moment your dog turns back towards you, that's regulation returning, however briefly, and it's worth marking and rewarding. Then carry on.

You're not punishing the pull. You're giving their nervous system a chance to settle and reconnect, and showing your dog that coming back to you is what gets the walk moving again.

Capacity, not just difficulty
Loose-lead walking is easy in the kitchen and hard on the high street. Not because the high street is a harder trick, but because it asks far more of your dog's capacity to stay regulated. Everything in between is where the work happens.
  • Level 1: In the house
  • Level 2: In the garden
  • Level 3: A quiet side street
  • Level 4: A park, early morning, few distractions
  • Level 5: A busy path with dogs, joggers and children
If your dog can manage Level 2 but falls apart at Level 4, that isn't failure. It's your dog telling you exactly where their capacity currently sits, and Level 3 is where the next session belongs.

Let them sniff
A walk with no sniffing isn't really a walk — it's a march. Sniffing helps a dog's nervous system come down a gear. It gives them something to process and reduces the pull towards whatever's ahead.

Build sniffing time into every walk. Cue it, let them investigate, then move on. A dog who has thoroughly worked the last three lampposts has far less urgency dragging them towards the fourth.

Realistic expectations
This isn't a two-week job. Most dogs need months of consistent, calm practice before the skill holds up in busy environments, and adolescent dogs may lose it and find it again more than once along the way.
That's normal. Go back to an easier level, rebuild the habit there, and work forwards again.

When you'd like a hand
​
If your dog's pulling comes from struggling with reactivity, overarousal or fear rather than simple enthusiasm, the mechanics above will only take you so far. The underlying emotional regulation needs addressing first.

That's exactly what our peACEful Walks sessions are built for: one to one, quiet locations, plenty of space, and a structured way to help your dog feel calmer and more connected on lead.
​
Get in touch — we're happy to talk through what your dog needs.

Chucking out the agility rule book - Updated July 2026

28/10/2018

 

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Sometimes you have to be brave. Sometimes you need to rewrite the rule book entirely — or ignore it altogether — to change a dog’s life.
Meet Slade. He is a rescue greyhound who has had one hell of a life, and yet, by taking a flexible approach to his agility sessions, we have been able to build an engaged, curious, motivated dog who looks forward to every Monday night.
Slade’s owner Sally is cautious about where he goes off lead, and rightly so. Our specialist coaching centre is the perfect environment for him: the other dogs waiting in their individual pens, the whole space fully enclosed, and Slade able to concentrate entirely on whatever we ask of him.
Slade is a big dog, and standard 60cm tunnels are a real strain on his body. So we swapped in our 80cm hoopers tunnel — now known around here as Slade’s Tunnel — and he gets the thrill of running through without paying for it later.
That is one story among many. We change what is standard whenever it is the difference between a dog joining in and a dog being left out.
That is what non-competitive agility is for. It is not about scores, weave-pole entries, or shaving hundredths of a second off a course time. It is about giving your dog somewhere to move, think, and enjoy themselves, in a way their body can handle and their brain finds rewarding.
We believe in an enriched and varied lifestyle for every dog, no matter age, breed, or ability. Our agility sessions are one of the ways we try to make good on that — reward-based, adapted to the individual, and above all, fun.

‘We believe in the importance of an enriched and varied lifestyle for all dogs no matter age, breed or ability. To help fulfil this, we aim to provide a wide range of enrichment activities in our specialist coaching centre in Hunstrete, all taught through reward-based methods and adapted to meet the needs of each dog. We pride ourselves on offering non-competitive, fun and friendly agility as one of these activities.’

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